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Your Diamond Education | Diamond Buying Guide | Page 2

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Your Diamond Education

Your Diamond Education

Carat

The carat of a diamond is actually a measure of the weight of the loose diamond.

1 carat = 200 milligrams

A carat is divided into 100 points.

1 carat = 100 points

So, as an example, 1 carat and 21 points is written 1.21 carats and would equal 1.21 x 200 milligrams = 242 milligrams. The larger the carat of the diamond, the more expensive that diamond is, with the other three Cs being equal.

 

More Carat = More Expensive

 

Remember, the carat of a diamond is the weight of the stone, not the size of the stone. However, there is an obvious relationship between carat and size for the common types of shapes for diamond.

A chart will again help you understand the cost implications of increasing or decreasing the carat of a diamond.

The chart below illustrates the change in price that accompanies the change in diamond carat, with the other 3 Cs being held equal, with a loose diamond, round shape, very good cut, F colour and VS1 clarity.

As larger diamonds are much rarer than smaller diamonds the increase in price is non-linear. Also, as the diamond carat reaches the whole numbers such as 1.0 or 2.0 carats, the price for the diamond increases at a faster rate approaching the whole carat weights. This is because wholesale diamonds tend to be priced in whole carats, which leads to the larger relative jump in price around these numbers and there is also an “exclusivity“ factor surrounding the whole carat numbers.

The size of the diamond is undoubtedly the most noticeable of the diamond’s characteristics. While it will be tempting to go for the biggest diamond available for your budget, you should bear in mind that despite what they say, size isn’t everything. The quality of a diamond is dependant on the other 3 Cs also.

The diamond carat is the C that is most easily able to be measured, as it is simply the weight of the diamond. This makes the carat an ideal C to use as a benchmark when evaluating diamonds. Hold the carat as a constant for different diamonds and then compare how differences in the other 3 Cs affect the cost of those diamonds.

Tips on Diamond Carat

When evaluating a diamond’s carat:

  • Make sure the jeweller is using calibrated electronic jewellery scales to weigh the diamonds he/she is showing you. Check this measured carat against the carat that is on the laboratory certificate.
  • Ask the jeweller what his/her opinion of the cut of the diamond is. A poorly cut diamond may hold its weight around its middle and therefore look smaller in diameter than what it should. In effect you will be paying more for a diamond that doesn’t look as big.

Clarity

The clarity of a diamond refers to the amount of visible flaws in the diamond. The fewer the visible flaws, the more expensive the diamond.

 

Less Flaws = More Expensive

 

Flaws that are visible on the surface of the diamond are called blemishes. Flaws that are visible inside the diamond are called inclusions.

The figure below shows the diamond clarity scale. This is common to all of the gemmological labs.

Above Figure: Diamond Clarity Scale

 

There are many terms used to describe the types of flaws that can occur in diamonds. Some of common ones are:

Crystal (internal)

A crystal is any mineral crystal that is enclosed by the diamond. They can also occur on the surface of a diamond. They can be any size, shape or colour but the most common ones appear like a small clear bubble to the naked eye. They are sometimes referred to as "carbons”, “carbon spots” or “bubbles”.

 

Feathers (internal)

A feather is any type of break or fracture in a diamond. They often have a feather-like appearance, hence the name. A heavy knock to the diamond can make them larger.

 

Pinpoints (internal)

A pinpoint is a type of crystal that is very small and cannot be seen by the naked eye, only with a 10x or greater magnification.

 

Clouds (internal)

A cloud is a very tightly packed group of pinpoints that looks like a cloud under 10x magnification.

 

Abrasion (external)

An abrasion is a series of very small nicks or chips on the surface of a diamond, usually along a facet line. These are caused by wear and tear when diamonds are not stored carefully with other diamonds (as only diamond can scratch diamond).

 

A chart will again help you understand the cost implications of increasing or decreasing the clarity of a diamond.
 
The chart below illustrates the change in price that accompanies the change in diamond clarity, with the other 3 Cs being held equal, with a loose diamond, round shape, good cut, 1.0 carat, and F colour.

 

Each time you view a diamond, have the jeweller show you the flaw diagram on the laboratory certificate and ask him to point out these flaws on the diamond itself. If the diamond has good clarity it may be difficult to see these flaws but persevere, once you have seen the most common types of flaw once, it will become easier to find them on other diamonds. 

Tips on Diamond Clarity

When assessing a diamond’s clarity: 

  • ALWAYS use at least a 10x magnification eyepiece (known as a loupe in the industry). If you use a lower magnification you may not pick up all of the important flaws in the diamond.
  • Always view the diamond un-mounted. If the diamond is already mounted in a ring, the mounting claws and the mounting itself may obscure any flaws.
  • Always buy a diamond with an independent laboratory certificate. The flaw diagram on the laboratory certificate will be marked with the locations of the flaws that were identified when the grading was performed. The flaws are a great distinguishing feature of each individual diamond. They can be a good means of assuring yourself that the diamond you are viewing is actually the same diamond that is graded on the laboratory certificate, and that a "switch” of diamonds hasn’t taken place.
 

The 4 Cs and 3 Others

Perhaps the most well known characteristics of diamonds (aside from their toughness) are the “4Cs”. These are:

  • Cut
  • Clarity
  • Colour
  • Carat

I also believe that there are three other Cs which could be added.

These are:

  • Certification (from independent gemological laboratory)
  • Choice (of merchant)
  • Conflict (diamonds) 

The following sections will give a thorough explanation of each of the Cs.

Colour

The colour of a diamond refers to the amount of “yellowness” that the diamond has. While typically you might think of diamonds as being colourless, in fact, most have a yellow hue to them (due to nitrogen contamination). If the other 3 Cs are held equal, the more colourless the diamond, the more expensive that diamond is.

 

Less Yellow = More Expensive

 

However, very intensely yellow diamonds are highly prized and can be very expensive. These are known as Fancy Yellow diamonds.

Colour is graded on sliding scales. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) scale, ranging from D to Z, is the most common colour scale used. Some of the other gemological laboratories have a different scale for diamond colour.

Because of the gradual increase in colour up the scale, it is very difficult for the untrained eye to tell the difference between one grade and the next grade. For example, telling the difference between an “F” colour diamond and a “G” colour diamond is difficult. However, it is much easier to tell the difference between a “D” grade diamond and an “I” grade diamond.

The chart below illustrates the change in price that accompanies the change in diamond colour, with the other 3 Cs being held equal, with a loose diamond, round shape, good cut, 1.0 carat, flawless (FL) clarity, and good proportions/symmetry.

It illustrates the large decrease in price from “D” to “E” grade, and the subsequent linear decrease from “E” to “J” grade.“D” colour diamonds are very rare and subsequently are very highly priced relative to the other colour grades.

So now you know, if you decide that you wish to buy a near colourless diamond then you pay proportionally more for a “D” grade than you do for an “E” grade.

You might be wondering how a diamond is actually assigned a colour grade. There are two primary methods:

  1. Using a set of reference diamonds. These are a set of diamonds that have already been graded for colour by one of the gemmological institutes. They act as a baseline for determining the colour of other diamonds that they are compared to. Once the diamond has been graded, this grade is entered onto its laboratory certification and will not need to be graded for colour again.
  2. A Colorimeter. This is a device which beams a ray of light through the top of the diamond. The beam passes through the diamond and then through various light filters. A receptor analyses the beam and measures the absorption of the colours. The analyser determines the colour of the diamond according to the degree of absorption of the other colours of light. 

Fluorescence is a factor that partially affects the colour of a diamond that you may not even hear mentioned by any jeweller you consult. Fluorescence is the glow that is produced when a diamond is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is due to the diamond containing tiny amounts of the element Boron. The most common glow colour is blue, although other colours are also possible.

There is ongoing debate about whether fluorescence actually improves or detracts from a diamonds appearance. Whatever the case, most consumers try to avoid diamonds with fluorescence and will certainly not pay a premium for a diamond with fluorescence.

Tips On Diamond Colour

When assessing a diamond’s colour there are a few rules of thumb you should follow:

  • You must look through the side of the diamond to see the true colour, not the top or bottom.
  • The diamond should be viewed against a plain, preferably white background (a black or dark background will make a diamond look more white than it actually is). 
  • Start by “getting your eye in” by comparing diamonds with several grades of colour between them, for example, a “D” coloured diamond with a “J” coloured diamond (keep the other 3Cs constant.) The difference should be quite noticeable. Move onto comparing, say, an “E” with a “H”. These should be more difficult to tell apart. Finally, compare two stones of only one colour grade difference, such as an “F” compared with a “G”.
  • The diamond must be un-mounted, that is, not already set into a ring. If it is already mounted you will find it very difficult to get a clear view of the diamond and thus a true indication of its colour.
  • Always purchase diamonds that have been graded by one of the independent gemological institutes and have an authentic laboratory certificate accompanying the diamond.
  • Make sure the diamond is being viewed under lighting that simulates natural light conditions as closely as possible. Some jewellers use bright halogen lamps which give an unnaturally intense sparkle to a diamond. The diamond will then look much duller when viewed in natural light.
  • A jeweller will generally “round up” the colour of a diamond in his/her favour, for example, if a diamond colour grade looks like it is somewhere between an “F” and a “G”, the jeweller will round it to “F”, as this would command a higher price. To avoid this, always make sure the diamond has a laboratory certification, from which you can then confirm a diamond’s officially graded colour.

Diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but arming yourself with a complete knowledge of the characteristics of diamonds will be your best friend as you begin the hunt for your diamond / diamond ring.

By reading this guide completely, taking notes as necessary and highlighting important points, you will be in a position to save potentially hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars of your hard-earned money.


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What our clients say

To say I was amazed by the final ring in person was an understatement. The ring was exactly as I and more importantly my fiancée wanted. The quality of the finished item was superb and the after sales service equally so. Going forward I will be purchasing all my jewellery from Dubai Diamonds and would highly recommend others to do so.

Mr Tom Gardner, London, U.K.

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