By reading this guide completely, taking notes as necessary and highlighting important points, you will be in a position to save potentially hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars of your hard-earned money.
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]]>Perhaps the most well known characteristics of diamonds (aside from their toughness) are the “4Cs”. These are:
I also believe that there are three other Cs which could be added.
These are:
The following sections will give a thorough explanation of each of the Cs.
]]>The cut of a diamond refers to the way in which it is angled and proportioned.
Better Cut = More Expensive
The cut is arguably the most important of the 4Cs because the intensity of the sparkle and brilliance of the diamond is mostly due to the quality of the cut. The different angles and lengths contribute to how much of the light that enters the diamond is reflected internally and then back out again. This is the diamond’s “sparkle”.
It is also one of the most difficult of the Cs to rate. One particular cut may appeal to one person but not to another. Before discussing the specifics of the cut it would help if you were familiar with the names of the major measurements of a diamond. The figure below provides a good illustration of these.

Above Figure: Major Diamond Parameters
When you visit a jeweller/merchant they will use these names when describing a particular diamond's proportions to you.
When a diamond is graded by an independent laboratory all of the proportions are taken into account to arrive at a grading of the proportions (cut). The diamond grading certificate will state what standard the proportions (cut) are. For example the GIA grading will state that the proportions are either:
There are precise mathematical formulas for determining the cut of a diamond that gives the optimum amount of sparkle.
One of these types of cut is called the “Ideal Cut”. The figure to the left shows the path a ray of light takes when entering an Ideal Cut diamond. The light is reflected back up to the viewer of the diamond, and appears to have more sparkle.

Above Figure: Light Path Through Ideal Cut Diamond
The figure below shows an example of the proportions that make up a typical Ideal Cut. There are a range of proportions that exist, not just one value.

Above Figure: Ideal Cut Diamond Parameters
With regards to the shape of the diamond, the round cut gives the most intense sparkle because it suffers from the least amount of "leakage”. Leakage is the amount of light that is reflected out of the sides of the diamond rather than the top.
The figures below illustrate the concept of leakage of light. On the left is a shallow cut diamond and on the right is a deep cut diamond.

Figure: Shallow Cut Diamond Light Path Figure: Deep Cut Diamond Light Path
Each of the flat surfaces of the diamond is called a facet. The figure below illustrates the various names of the facets of a diamond.

Figure: Diamond Facet Names
A diamond’s facets will either let light pass through or reflect the light. The angle that the light hits the facet determines whether the light is reflected or passes through.
The girdle is the circumference of the diamond that marks out its diameter. The girdle should be an even depth right around the entire diamond.

Figure: Three Examples Of Girdle Thickness
Ideally the girdle should be somewhere between thin-medium to slightly thick. If the girdle is too thin then it may be prone to chipping. If the girdle is too thick then the diamond carries its weight around its middle rather than being a wider diameter and you get a diamond that looks smaller than what it should for the price you pay.
The culet is the point of the diamond.
Initially, assessing the quality of the cut will be difficult for you to do. Cut is one of the most subjective of the 4Cs to assess because one individual will assess sparkle intensity differently to another.
As you have done with the other 3 Cs, calibrate your Cut radar by asking your jeweller to compare an Ideal Cut diamond with a poorly cut diamond. You should easily be able to notice the more intense sparkle that the Ideal Cut exhibits.
Then, have your jeweller bring out progressively better cuts of diamond to compare to the Ideal Cut diamond, and note the point where you can no longer make a distinction between the difference in sparkle.
A second element of the diamond cut is the shape of the diamond. The most common of these for an engagement ring is the round shape.
Some shapes popularity increases as trends change. If you are looking for the most sparkle from your diamond then stick with the round shape diamond as the geometry of it means that there is less leakage compared to the other types of diamond shape.

An Australian master jeweller by the name of Garry Holloway devised the Holloway Cut Adviser (HCA) as a scientific means of determining the amount of sparkle that a round diamond exhibits, based on the proportions of that diamond.
Holloway’s test uses four factors to describe the quality of the diamond’s visual appearance. These are brilliance (light return), fire, scintillation and spread. These are described below.
Brilliance is the perception of a diamond’s brightness. A bright diamond will return a lot of light back up to an observer.
Fire is a measure of the dispersion of the light that is returned back to a diamond’s observer. A diamond with good fire appears to have a lot of flashes of rainbow colours. This aspect of the diamond’s appearance is best viewed with less light, otherwise the fire flashes get swamped by the sparkle of the diamond.
Scintillation is the intense sparkles that occur when a diamond is moved about. Ideally there are many areas of scintillation across the face of a diamond with few dull patches.
Spread is a measure of the apparent size of a diamond and should be an important factor in your buying decision. Obviously you want to be able to purchase the largest diamond you can with the money you have available, while also factoring in quality for the other 3 Cs. Whilst size doesn’t play a large part in the beauty of a diamond, it certainly contributes to the desirability of that diamond.
The depth percentage value is used to give a range for a good diamond spread. Using Figure 8, if you divide the depth of the diamond by the diameter of the diamond you should get a value that is somewhere between 56% and 65%.
As with the other Cs, proof of a diamonds’ cut can only be verified with an authentic laboratory certificate.
The laboratory certificate for the diamond will give values for proportions of the cut such as:
Some of these proportions can be used in a calculation that determines the values for the:
When evaluating a diamond’s cut:
The clarity of a diamond refers to the amount of visible flaws in the diamond. The fewer the visible flaws, the more expensive the diamond.
Less Flaws = More Expensive
Flaws that are visible on the surface of the diamond are called blemishes. Flaws that are visible inside the diamond are called inclusions.
The figure below shows the diamond clarity scale. This is common to all of the gemmological labs.
Above Figure: Diamond Clarity Scale
There are many terms used to describe the types of flaws that can occur in diamonds. Some of common ones are:
A crystal is any mineral crystal that is enclosed by the diamond. They can also occur on the surface of a diamond. They can be any size, shape or colour but the most common ones appear like a small clear bubble to the naked eye. They are sometimes referred to as "carbons”, “carbon spots” or “bubbles”.
A feather is any type of break or fracture in a diamond. They often have a feather-like appearance, hence the name. A heavy knock to the diamond can make them larger.
A pinpoint is a type of crystal that is very small and cannot be seen by the naked eye, only with a 10x or greater magnification.
A cloud is a very tightly packed group of pinpoints that looks like a cloud under 10x magnification.
An abrasion is a series of very small nicks or chips on the surface of a diamond, usually along a facet line. These are caused by wear and tear when diamonds are not stored carefully with other diamonds (as only diamond can scratch diamond).

Each time you view a diamond, have the jeweller show you the flaw diagram on the laboratory certificate and ask him to point out these flaws on the diamond itself. If the diamond has good clarity it may be difficult to see these flaws but persevere, once you have seen the most common types of flaw once, it will become easier to find them on other diamonds.
When assessing a diamond’s clarity:
The colour of a diamond refers to the amount of “yellowness” that the diamond has. While typically you might think of diamonds as being colourless, in fact, most have a yellow hue to them (due to nitrogen contamination). If the other 3 Cs are held equal, the more colourless the diamond, the more expensive that diamond is.
Less Yellow = More Expensive
However, very intensely yellow diamonds are highly prized and can be very expensive. These are known as Fancy Yellow diamonds.
Colour is graded on sliding scales. The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) scale, ranging from D to Z, is the most common colour scale used. Some of the other gemological laboratories have a different scale for diamond colour.

Because of the gradual increase in colour up the scale, it is very difficult for the untrained eye to tell the difference between one grade and the next grade. For example, telling the difference between an “F” colour diamond and a “G” colour diamond is difficult. However, it is much easier to tell the difference between a “D” grade diamond and an “I” grade diamond.
The chart below illustrates the change in price that accompanies the change in diamond colour, with the other 3 Cs being held equal, with a loose diamond, round shape, good cut, 1.0 carat, flawless (FL) clarity, and good proportions/symmetry.
It illustrates the large decrease in price from “D” to “E” grade, and the subsequent linear decrease from “E” to “J” grade.“D” colour diamonds are very rare and subsequently are very highly priced relative to the other colour grades.

So now you know, if you decide that you wish to buy a near colourless diamond then you pay proportionally more for a “D” grade than you do for an “E” grade.
You might be wondering how a diamond is actually assigned a colour grade. There are two primary methods:
Fluorescence is a factor that partially affects the colour of a diamond that you may not even hear mentioned by any jeweller you consult. Fluorescence is the glow that is produced when a diamond is exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. It is due to the diamond containing tiny amounts of the element Boron. The most common glow colour is blue, although other colours are also possible.
There is ongoing debate about whether fluorescence actually improves or detracts from a diamonds appearance. Whatever the case, most consumers try to avoid diamonds with fluorescence and will certainly not pay a premium for a diamond with fluorescence.
When assessing a diamond’s colour there are a few rules of thumb you should follow:
The carat of a diamond is actually a measure of the weight of the loose diamond.
1 carat = 200 milligrams
A carat is divided into 100 points.
So, as an example, 1 carat and 21 points is written 1.21 carats and would equal 1.21 x 200 milligrams = 242 milligrams. The larger the carat of the diamond, the more expensive that diamond is, with the other three Cs being equal.
More Carat = More Expensive
Remember, the carat of a diamond is the weight of the stone, not the size of the stone. However, there is an obvious relationship between carat and size for the common types of shapes for diamond.
A chart will again help you understand the cost implications of increasing or decreasing the carat of a diamond.
The chart below illustrates the change in price that accompanies the change in diamond carat, with the other 3 Cs being held equal, with a loose diamond, round shape, very good cut, F colour and VS1 clarity.

As larger diamonds are much rarer than smaller diamonds the increase in price is non-linear. Also, as the diamond carat reaches the whole numbers such as 1.0 or 2.0 carats, the price for the diamond increases at a faster rate approaching the whole carat weights. This is because wholesale diamonds tend to be priced in whole carats, which leads to the larger relative jump in price around these numbers and there is also an “exclusivity“ factor surrounding the whole carat numbers.
The size of the diamond is undoubtedly the most noticeable of the diamond’s characteristics. While it will be tempting to go for the biggest diamond available for your budget, you should bear in mind that despite what they say, size isn’t everything. The quality of a diamond is dependant on the other 3 Cs also.
The diamond carat is the C that is most easily able to be measured, as it is simply the weight of the diamond. This makes the carat an ideal C to use as a benchmark when evaluating diamonds. Hold the carat as a constant for different diamonds and then compare how differences in the other 3 Cs affect the cost of those diamonds.
When evaluating a diamond’s carat:
Now that we have covered the traditional 4 Cs, you should be well positioned to talk knowledgably about diamonds with the various retailers and merchants that you will visit while searching for that perfect diamond.
However, in my opinion, there are also 3 other Cs to consider.
Many diamonds have been graded by an independent gemological laboratory. The report produced from the grading process is called an independent diamond grading certificate or independent diamond grading report.
Each report details certain characteristics of the diamond that has been graded.
There are 5 main gemological institutes that handle the independent grading of diamonds.
GIA www.gia.edu
GIA is the Gemological Institute of America. This is recognised as one of the leading grading labs in the world and is a non-profit organisation. The world headquarters are located in California, USA.
Their website has some very good interactive diamond education tutorials.
AGS www.agslab.com & www.americangemsociety.org
AGS is the American Gem Society. It is half investor-owned and half jeweller-association owned. They have the reputation of grading the very best diamonds and hence you will pay more for an AGS certified diamond.
HRD www.hrd.be
HRD is the Antwerp World Diamond Centre located in Antwerp, Belgium. It is a non-profit organisation. One of the departments is HRD Certificates. As a European-based lab, HRD certificates do not get much mention on the more prevalent US-based diamond informational sites. However, they do have a very good reputation in Europe itself, and are essentially the European equivalent of GIA. This laboratory was the first worldwide to gain accreditation itself for the quality standards of EN 45001, ISO/IEC Guide 25 and ISO 9002.
EGL is the European Gemological Laboratory. This is a network of institutes located in South Africa, India, Belgium, the UK, Israel, Turkey, Korea, and France.
IGI is the International Gemological Institute. This is one of the smaller laboratories.
Tips on Diamond Certification
The next C is the choice of category of diamond retailer that you purchase the diamond from.
The main categories of merchant are:
Each of the different types has advantages and disadvantages.
International Luxury Brand with UK store(s)
These are the world’s most exclusive luxury jewellery brands that command a premium price. Customers are then able to say that they own a branded piece.
Examples of these brands are:
These brands employ the very best designers and use excellent quality diamonds to create spectacular rings. However typically these brands command exorbitant prices. They have been built around the concept of exclusivity and are aimed squarely at the upper end of the market.
While you can narrow down the search to a particular setting and size of diamond by visiting a national jewellery chain store, the famous brands offer their own particular designs of settings that national chains will not carry. If your fiancée/girlfriend wants a special design for her ring then famous brand stores could be the place to find it. However once she has found the design that she likes you can get the design replicated by a craftsman and pay far less doing it this way. Be careful about infringing copyright laws if you do decide to go down this route.
Pros:
Cons:
National Jewellery Chain
These are the familiar national companies that advertise extensively in national media and have a store in most cities and main towns.
These stores are fairy common on the High Streets of most towns and cities. This makes them an excellent first stop when venturing out on your first browsing mission.
Staff will be moderately trained but you will have at least as much knowledge as them (if not more) after you have read this guide. Remember that these are sales assistants and will attempt to sell you a piece of their jewellery. Be sure to read all of this guide as it details persuasion techniques that these assistants are likely to use on you, and the methods to counter their tactics.
These stores will also use fairly standard High Street “Sale Ends Soon” type promotions and it is important not to be suckered into a purchase because of one of these seemingly “great deal going quickly” campaigns.
There are large profit margins that get added at each stage of the diamond supply chain, and one of your aims is to either avoid or to whittle down as many of these profit margins as possible.
Pros:
Cons:
Independent High Street Retailer
These tend to be the family-owned stores that may have been retailing for many years in your local town or city.
Their main areas of strength are that they offer easily-trusted, personalised service which they use to survive competitively next to the national jewellery chain stores. They will probably have strong links with local jewellery makers so can be a good option for having a customised setting produced.
Pros:
Cons:
Online Diamond Merchant
Many national chain jewellers and independent high street retailers have websites that their jewellery can be purchased from. There are also online retailers who have either very limited or no “bricks-n-mortar” stores at all.
The cost savings of buying through the internet can be considerable. An online merchant can avoid the high overheads of maintaining a shop in a High Street location and does not have to carry as much stock as a traditional jeweller. Adding to this is the fact that most online merchants actually reduce their profit margins so as to be an even more attractive proposition over the bricks-n-mortar retailers. This price reduction can be anywhere between 30% and 50%!
Pros:
Cons:
Independent Diamond Merchant
An independent diamond merchant is an individual or company that buys diamonds directly from a diamond exchange. They may also buy or trade diamonds with other diamond merchants. A diamond merchant may also be called a diamond broker or a diamond trader.
Typically, independent diamond merchants will only have a very small shop or simply an office, and deal on a one-on-one basis with their customers.
These two factors explain the large cost savings that can be made by purchasing from a diamond merchant. They are closer to the start of the supply chain and so a manufacturer and retailer store haven’t added their margin into the price equation, and they do not need to hold large amounts of diamond stock, or employ many staff, nor have the other overheads of running a retail store. Like the online diamond retailer price reductions of 30% to 50% can be achieved compared to buying from the High Street!
Typically, the diamond merchant will source the loose diamond for you and he/she will have that diamond set into a ring by a goldsmith that they have a supplier relationship with.
They could at your instruction, work with a designer to merge your perfect diamond with the perfect setting. This will of course be more expensive than using a stock setting provided by a goldsmith.
Pros:
Cons:
Diamond Jewellery Designer
A jewellery designer will generally not source the diamond for you; they will leave that up to an independent diamond merchant. What they will do is bring to fruition the diamond engagement ring in your mind's eye.
Pros:
Cons:
Friend's Recommendation
A good price, good service, no pressure to buy, and trust in the retailer are all factors which play a part in the purchasing decision and it is usually these factors that get mentioned when someone gives you a word-of-mouth recommendation.
Because we are in a time when the buyer is spoiled for choice for retailers who can fulfil his/her needs, a friend’s opinion can be a real time-saver.
Pros:
Cons:
In relation to diamond trading, conflict diamond (also called a converted diamond, blood diamond, hot diamond, or war diamond) refers to a diamond mined in a war zone and sold to finance an insurgency, invading army's war efforts, or a warlord's activity, usually in Africa where around two-thirds of the world's diamonds are extracted.
Conflict diamonds are estimated to make up about 4% of the world’s diamond production. Three countries where many conflict diamonds are sourced from are Sierra Leone, the Congo and Angola, all in diamond-rich West and Central Africa.
If you purchase a conflict diamond then you are perpetuating these terrible actions and the vicious cycle.
The best way to avoid purchasing a conflict diamond is by getting proof from your shortlisted retailers that their diamonds are conflict-free and were traded under the auspices of the Kimberley Process.
The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) is the process designed to certify the origin of rough diamonds from sources which are free of conflict funded by diamond production. This is the logo for the KPCS:
